Big country, small towns

Broome (compared) to Darwin

Towns are not big in the Kimberleys. I always found it amazing that a destination on the map most times was just a store with service station. Mind you, in all of that open land, it’s greatly appreciated to have anything marked on a map, particularly a shop offering basic supplies.

The wild, wild west of Broome's town centre.

For its small size, Broome still required a map, mainly because everything is so spread out that it’s difficult to get your bearings except for when you’re driving along the ocean. It did have a high street and surprisingly it had a very distinct architectural character. Everything in the centre was one to two storeys high, usually had an awning, and was made out of corrugated iron. Set against wide, mostly dirt roads, the town had a nice, rustic feel. It was a cute place, including its little airport where you step off the plane directly onto the tarmac. Yes, everything was quaint in Broome. Of course, there were shopping centres and sprawl, but the country – with the 22km long Cable Beach – very much outsized the town.

You learn not to expect much when the map shows a ‘town’ is approaching. Birgit’s guide (see 1 August posting), in all its thoroughness, did have at least a page of information for each place, covering restaurants, accommodation and sights to see. Even the Imintji food store had half a page written about it so you were bound to expect more. But no, you perhaps come across a high street and occasionally some places along the main road. You notice a routine in your shopping – fuel, Coles or Woolworths, liquor store and a Bakers Delight.

Entering the Northern Territory, not much changed except places seemed a bit run down, probably because they’ve been around for longer. Since the road was all bitumen, the area was more established. There were definitely more people on the roads and in the campsites. Even with that as an indicator, I was surprised when we reached the outskirts of Darwin.

Darwin was busy. It had people – 120,000 compared to 15,000 in Broome. It had buildings. And suburbs. It was just like your typical tropical, modern city except for one, big caveat – you can’t go in or near the water. First, you have crocodiles. Then, if you somehow make it into the ocean, then you get jellyfish – very painful ones. Shame, because the weather is humid and the water is enticing. Too bad it’s just not a good idea.

Fenced off from the sea.

Since the city is on the waterfront, protecting people from these elements is a big task. Generally, it’s done by putting up fences. So, you’re in a humid climate, looking out onto an inviting ocean and you’re facing a fence. It’s an awkward imprisonment.

Your other option is to walk inland which is actually more of a challenge. It’s hot in Darwin. Most of the streets are wide and with little shade. Places are spread out or along the highway. Developments spill out onto the sidewalk. None of this makes walking an attractive option.

Darwin suffered a cyclone in the 1970s which basically wiped it out. Few houses still stand of the old era of bungalows on stilts. These are very charming and airy houses that reminisce to a time when Darwin was carefree and groovy. In many ways it still is – with its markets, galleries and tropical weather. But it leaves you thinking there’s potential for it to be much more.